Monday, April 20, 2009

Day 7: A relaxed day

After an exciting and fast paced weekend in Shanghai, we decided to go at "vacation pace". So I got up at a leisurely 6:30 am (yes, my dear alarm clock Sanay rang!), and then read the news, surfed, etc. Shafung, Ritu's housekeeper got in at 7:30 am and got Sanay a little dog that danced to a Chinese tune when you pressed his hand- very adorable!

We kept deciding on going out, but sat back a few times. Finally, I decided on getting my hair done, and getting a foot massage....aah! Beijing is so cheap when it comes to salon services- I could move here just for that! :D

At lunch time, we finally decided to step out, and headed to 798 art district. It was a lovely Bohemian area with small cafes, art shops and galleries. Unfortunately, most of the stores in the district are shut on Monday. We still got a chance to flavor the place with the few shops that were opened. I had a very different view of China in my head before I got here. But here were art pieces with a dragon head and a man's body in a military suit, mocking the Chinese regime! Free speech *does* exist, albeit veiled. Since we couldn't really get a chance to look at art, we headed to an antiques store run by an American lady. Exquisite pieces at matching prices, so we just window shopped for the most part.

The highlight of the day was the Chinese acrobatics show that we went to, while bua was baby sitting Sanay. This performance trumped Cirque Du Soleil by far. These people are made of rubber! And the sets were outstanding! We went back home to a happy baby and a happy bua. Sanay had enjoyed his evening, played, read, listened to music, eaten, p**ped- all in 2 hours!

Sunday, April 19, 2009

Day 6: Enjoying the Shanghai rain

After a somewhat restful night, we got up at 6:30. I'm beginning to think babies have alarm clocks implanted into them into them at birth! We pack up and get ready to check out since we have our flight to catch back to Beijing in the evening. After breakfast we head to the Bund.

The Bund is part of old Shanghai with remnants from the semi-colonialism that it experienced during the Opium Wars. It starts to rain as we get there, so we bundle up Sanay in the Bjorn, put a sheet over him and head to the promenade. The Bund has sweeping views of the Pudong. We enjoy the view from here, take our touristy pictures with the Oriental Pearl in the background and then head out from there, since we don't want to get drenched...the rain means my bad hair day has started and all my efforts at the salon on Friday are to waste :(

We head to Nanjing Dong Lu, sort of like China's 5th Avenue. The analogies to the US are instinctive. Perhaps it helps us put things in perspective. It has huge stores and malls and a cute pedestrian only walkway flanked by stores on either side. Since we're only window shopping, we stop here for a bit. We also purchase two umbrellas for 15 kwai(local way of saying yuan). You get what you pay for! :) People's Park, serves as the green area of respite from the urban sprawl, so we head there next. The only problem is that the rain has picked up now. After another 10 minutes of fiddling with Sanay's stroller, Bjorn, diaper bag, camera case, etc. we head to the park. The rain is pelting now, and Sanay's protests of dislike for it are getting louder. So we run through two tents full of people- I don't know what they were even doing there, and head to a covered area. We find a Haagen Dazs where Sanay lunches and the rest of us have our dessert before lunch. We don't really get to see People's Park, but my list has cheated a check mark against it nonetheless. Perhaps, next time.

Its now time for our lunch at Xintiandi. There is nothing Chinese about this place. Its an upmarket urban restaurant area with a feel of Santana Row. There's plenty of food choices here. Sunil wants to eat Bavarian, but Manish and I don't have much of a stomach for sauerkrat and sausages, so we elbow everyone into yet another Chinese meal :) We head to South Beauty, a very popular chain of Sichuan food. Sanay is taking his afternoon nap, so we get to eat without distraction. The lunch is outstanding, and the presentation would probably put some of the finer restaurants in SF to shame. After lunching on spicy food, we're all really sloooow.

We head next to the Jing'an Temple. It used to be a place for ancestor worship, but because of its current location, is now used to pray for wealth and financial success. So we dutifully look around and toss our coins into the giant incense burner there. Chinese architecture with its flying eaves, beautiful pagodas, and ornate wood work does not cease to charm.

We're now headed to the airport. For a small change fee, we all get to go back on the same flight home. Ritu and I are craving some black tea, so we use Sunil and Manish's lounge passes to get into the Star Alliance lounge, act like kids, get some cookies and tea and head to our flight. Sanay is crazy excited on this flight as well, and can't stop cooing. He doesn't stop amusing us. On arrival, his checked in stroller is all wet. Ritu lets them know that the bugaboo is going to need some cleaning. Without batting an eyelid, they give us 200 to clean it up. I would never expect this in the US.

Another great day comes to an end. We get home and crash after a long eventful day.

Day 4: Forbidden City and Hutongs

Forbidden City
Hutongs
Off to Shanghai

Day 3: Temple of Heaven

Temple of Heaven
Silk Market

Day 2: The Great Wall and Hot Pot

We finally settled in- sort of, and Sanay is slowly getting out of jetlag. So we decided to start the day with Beijing's biggest attraction- the Great Wall! Sunil took the day off, and Ritu packed a picnic. I was all patronizing in the beginning, about how lovely the roads were here, and how nice the cars were, etc., etc. But this place truly rocks! After a smooth and picturesque drive, we arrive at the base of Badaling, one of three points in Shanghai where we can see the Great Wall. As soon as we arrive, Sanay gives us a little "work" to do. Oh Sanay- what lovely timing! We head up in a cable car. Sanay is securely strapped in Manish's Bjorn, since we'll be doing a little climbing. The ride offers sweeping views of the mountains and parts of the wall. When we reach up, we're mostly awed by this creation, our open jaws shut from time to time by jostling tourists, and people who think Sanay is related to Jackie Chan- how else can he be so popular! I have to sanitize his hands every time someone wants to offer their finger to him, so that they can take a picture. People think nothing of stopping dead in their tracks and staring at us with baby. So amusing! Back to the wall...the climb up the wall is VERY steep, and Ritu and I lose orientation on one steep portion. But if this is all we came to China for, it would be worth the trip...miles and miles of walls and forts dating back to 100s of years...simply wow!

Next on our list is the little safari at Badaling. Sanay is totally wired by now, and is jumping up and down in my lap as I show him the animals. Mostly we see the cat family up close. They are majestic. We also see bears of a few kinds. But my favorite part of the safari is towards the end, where they have a display of peacocks. There's a whole bunch of them gathered at their afternoon club, when suddenly they all decided to put on a show for us. We see TEN peacocks open up their feathers, jiggle them and then do the circular dance. I don't know about the peahens, but I'm floored. I've never seen something as beautiful as this.

Ritu and I are big foodies, and she's been raving about this hot pot place, so we end the day with dinner in town at his awesome restaurant that serves the most amazing hotpot. Think of it as Chinese fondue. Each person gets his or her personalized broth brewing in a hot pot. You can then order different meats and vegetables that come in on your table raw. Put it in the hot water for a couple minutes, and dinner is ready! Superb! If I remember right we had- lamb, chicken, shrimp, spinach leaves, chinese cabbage, tofu, enoki mushroom, lotus root, raddish, noodles...the list is endless. I drink up the entire leftover broth in my drunk tired state, only to come home and realize I feel like a water balloon! But the food was chumma! What a lovely end to the Great Wall.
Hot Pot

Thursday, April 16, 2009

Day 1: "Essence of China"

We get up at 5 am since this is all Sanay can sleep today. Perhaps tomorrow will be better. We're pretty much walking zombies today. Our plans of going to Forbidden City are quickly changed to a more slow paced day of shopping. We head out first in the morning to a workshop that Ritu knows off- George's Lamps. What a feast to the eyes! Lamps of every kind adorn this huge workshop. They're made of buddhas, funeral bells, ceremonial urns, incense burns, etc. Basically George sources antiques and turns them into these charmers in his workshop. I get two lamps and am very excited about how they'll turn out looking.

Next we head to the Lidu area for some authentic Chinese food. All my images of traditional Chinese food being bland are quashed as I am taken to this Sichuan place for a meal. I can do this kind of food everyday.

After lunch we head to buy traditional Chinese tea. We see rose buds, chrysanthimum, green, white and jasmine tea. After sampling and buying our quota to take back home, we're now on to some very Chinese shopping. I tell Ritu I want to sample the "essence of China", so we head out to this bargain mall Yashow that sells everything from fake bags and clothes, to some Chinese artifacts. I start with some fashion bags. The haggling is beyond amusing. I put my hand on a bag, she starts with it being 3900. In an instant "for me", its 1900. I smile and nod my head from side to side. OK, 450 she says. I walk past her. She literally pulls my bag and sleeve so that I jolt backward, and asks me how much I want to pay for it. "Lady, this is a very good bag!" OK! If you say so. Anyway, by now I've been tickled silly, so I want in on this action. This is the first time I've seen Chinese haggling in action. I move to another stall and put my hand on a fashion bag. It starts with 1520. In Chinese, Ritu says she'll pay 90 for it. They lady insists that she's getting a great deal for 400. Finally, after nodding their heads, sticking to their guns and another 2 minutes of this, she sells for 100. For about the price of a movie in the US, I just bought myself the best entertainment in China so far! :) Hopefully, I'll use the bag too!

The day ends with a relaxed meal at home with family, and Sanay enjoying his time with his aunt, uncle and cousin.

Arrive at Beijing


Sanay is 6 months and its his first trip on a plane. Lots of packing, lots of it! Clothes, towels, bath supplies, diapers (and how many?!), wipes, toys, books, vitamins, medicines, creams, endless list... We finally make it after over 12 hours of packing in between taking care of Sanay, feeding him, making sure he naps and plays and doesn't get disturbed for the most part.

The 12 hour flight is ok. However, after reaching at the airport a little early for the assurance of a baby bassinet, all we get is a vinyl body bag type of thing that flops over him when we put him in. This contraption isn't going to work! Every time he dozes off and we put him down, he knows he's sleeping on a crappy bed so he gets up. That means the 4 hours of napping he's done on the flight has been in Mommy or Daddy's arms making for some very sore parents! I go to find a place when he's napping with Manish. I find a row of 3 empty seats at the back of the plane and make nothing of the blankets and pillows set out there like someone was already sleeping. I just about doze off and a man of Med descent comes in and tells me I'm squatting in his seat. After some very sleepy incoherent apologies from me, he lets me sleep in his seat for a half hour. Well rested I go back to Sanay and Manish.

Oh and the food on the flight's a joke. Some sad lunch at noon is followed by cup-o-noodles after 4 hours. After another 4 hours, they offer us more...noodles! or a sandwich. Ha ha! We're going to China alright!

We land in the afternoon to VERY courteous staff. We don't have to wait in the immigration line since we're with baby. A nice lady also shows us to the front of the shuttle train to baggage. Sanay's a little super-star in Beijing already. Everyone's crowding around him, smiling at him. This attention is funny and will take a little getting used to. People even want to take pictures with him! :)

After some very joyful union with his aunt, we head home. Within minutes of arriving, I'm officially on vacation. We call in a massage therapist who comes home to attend to me for a whole hour. This is life! Of course, the effects of the restful evening are negated while Sanay is adjusting to his new time zone and gets up 4 times at night. Perhaps the next day will be better.....but at least we're on vacation.